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Ebook Photoshop CS4 Collection on the internet there are many, bаіk which free or paid,I will present a free Adobe with a thickness of 700 pages and is the official release of the Adobe as a manual guide using Photoshop software Photoshop CS4 CS4.Ebook this can be a reference for designers and photo editors / photo retouch mania, so expect at least the user can use Photoshop CS4 with good.
Tips for improv landscspe your photos
03.06
fandy
art@artminareci.com1. Maksimalkan Depth of Field (DoF)
Sebuah pendekatan konsep normal dari sebuah landscape photography adalah "tajam dari ujung kaki sampai ke ujung horizon". Konsep dasar teori "oldies" ini menyatakan bahwa sebuah foto landscape selayaknya sebanyak mungkin semua bagian dari foto adalah focus (tajam). Untuk mendapatkan ketajaman lebar atau dgn kata lain bidang depth of focus (DOF) yang selebar2nya, bisa menggunakan apperture (bukaan diafragma) yang sekecil mungkin (f number besar), misalnya f14, f16, f18, f22, f32, dst. Sehingga dengan semakin kecilnya apperture, berarti semakin lamanya exposure.
Karena keterbatasan lensa (yang tidak mampu mencapai f32 dan/atau f64) atau posisi spot di mana kita berdiri tidak mendukung, sebuah pendekatan lain bisa kita gunakan, yaitu teori hyper-focal, untuk mendapatkan bidang fokus yang "optimal" sesuai dgn scene yang kita hadapi. Inti dari jarak hyper-focal adalah meletakan titik focus pada posisi yang tepat untuk mendapatkan bidang focus yg seluas-luasnya yg dimungkinkan sehingga akan tajam dari FG hingga ke BG.
contoh:
Dengan DoF lebar, akibat penggunaan f/20 dan pengaplikasian hyper-focal distance untuk menentukan focus
Masih dgn pengaplikasikan hyper-focal untuk mendapatkan DoF yg seluas2nya
2. use tripod dan cable release
akibat dari semakin lebarnya DOF yang berakibat semakin lamanya exposure, dibutuhkan tripod untuk long exposure untuk menjamin agar foto yang dihasilkan tajamkarena akan mengurangi getaran pada saat mengambil gambar. Disini kita juga dapat menggunakan Cable release dan fungsi akan image stabilizer (Canon) atau VR (Nikon) akan sangat membantu untuk menghasilkan gambar yang lebih baik.
3. look for Focal point or titik focus
Titik focus disini bukanlah titik dimana focus dari kamera diletakkan, tapi lebih merupakan titik dimana mata akan pertama kali tertuju (eye-contact) saat melihat foto.
Sebuah foto yang tanpa focal point, akan membuat mata "wandering" tanpa sempat berhenti, yang mengakibatkan kehilangan ketertarikan pada sebah foto landscape. Sering foto seperti itu disebut datar (bland) saja.
Focal point bisa berupa berupa bangunan (yg kecil atau unik diantara dataran kosong), pohon (yg berdiri sendiri), batu (atau sekumpulan batu), orang atau binatang, atau siluet bentuk yg kontrast dgn BG, dst.
Peletakan dimana focal point juga kadang sangat berpengaruh, disini aturan "oldies" Rule of Third bermain.
contoh di bawah, focal point adalah orang berpayung yang berbaju merah
Focal point adalah pada matahari dan pantulannya di sawah:
4. Look for Foreground (FG)
Foreground bisa menjadi focal point bahkan menjadi POI (Point of Interest) dalam foto landscape anda.
Oleh sebab itu carilah sebuah FG yang kuat.
Sebuah object atau pattern di FG bisa membuat "sense of scale" dr foto landscape kita.
contoh penerapan FG pada batu
contoh lain...
contoh dengan FG pada rumput:
5.Select the sky or land
Langit yang berawan bergelora, apalagi pada saat sunset atau sunrise, akan membuat foto kita menarik, tapi kita tetap harus memilih apakah kita akan membuat foto kita sebagian besar terdiri dari langit dgn meletakan horizon sedikit dibawah, atau sebagian besar daratan dgn meletakkan horizon sedikit dibagian atas.
Seberapa bagus pun daratan dan langit yang kita temui/hadapi saat memotret, membagi 2 sama bagian antara langit yang dramatis dan daratan/FG yang menarik akan membuat foto landscape menjadi tidak focus, krn kedua bagian tersebut sama bagusnya.
Komposisi dgn menggunakan prisip "oldies" Rule of Third akan sangat membantu. Letakkan garis horizon, di 1/3 bagian atas kalau kita ingin menonjolkan (emphasize) FG nya, atau letakkan horizon di 1/3 bagian bawah, kalau kita ingin menonjolkan langitnya.
Tentu saja hukum "Rule of Third" bisa dilanggar, andai pelanggaran itu justru memperkuat focal point dan bukan sebaliknya. Juga tidak selalu dead center adalah jelek.
contoh dibawah daratan lebih mendominasi daripada langit
langit yang lebih mendominasi:
Pelanggaran Rule of Third yang membagi 2 sama antara langit dan bumi
6.Carilah Garis/Lines/Pattern
Sebuah garis atau pattern bisa membuat/menjadi focal yang akan menggiring mata untuk lebih jauh mengexplore foto landscape anda. Kadang leading lines atau pattern tersebut bahkan bisa menjadi POI dari foto tersebut.
Garis-garis, juga bisa memberikan sense of scale atau image depth (kedalaman ruang).
Garis atau pattern bisa berupa apa saja, deretan pohon, bayangan, garis jalan,tangga, dst.
7. Capture moment & movement
Sebuah foto Landcsape tidak berarti kita hanya menangkap (capture) langit, bumi atau gunung, tapi semua elemen alam, baik itu diam atau bergerak seperti air terjun, aliran sungai, pohon2 yang bergerak, pergerakan awan, dst, dapat menjadikan sebuah foto landscape yang menarik.
8. Golden Hours & Blue hours
Pada normal colour landscape photography, saat terbaik biasanya adalah saat sekitar (sebelum) matahari terbenam (sunset) atau setelah matahari terbit (sunrise).
Golden hours adalah saat, biasanya 1-2 jam sebelum matahari terbenam (sunset) hingga 30 menit sebelum matahari terbenam, dan 1-3 jam sejak matahari terbit, dimana "golden light" atau sinar matahari akan membuat warna keemasaan pada object.
contoh:
Blue hours adalah beberapa saat, biasanya hingga 20-30 menit setelah matahari terbenam (sunset), dimana matahari sudah tebenam, tapi langit belum gelap hitam pekat. Pada saat ini langit akan berwarna biru.
Jadi adalah kurang tepat, bahwa pada saat matahari sudah terbenam dan langit mulai gelap (oleh mata kita), kita langsung mengemas/beres2 gear/tripod kita. Justru pada saat ini kita bisa mendapatkan sebuah scene yang bagus dimana langit akan berwarna biru dan tidak hitam pekat. Biasanya dgn long exposure, awan pun (walau kalau kita lihat dgn mata telanjang sdh tidak tampak) masih akan terlihat jelas dan memberikan texture pada langit biru.
contoh:
Jika kita memotret pada saat golden hours sudah lewat, atau pada saat matahari sudah terik, biasanya hasilnya akan flat atau harsh lightingnya krn matahari sudah jauh diatas.
Ini berlawananan dgn IR landscape photography yg tidak mengenal golden hours, dimana saat terbaik justru pada saat tengah teriknya matahari.
9. Cek Horizon
Walaupun sekarang dgn mudah kesalahan ini dapat di koreksi dgn image editor tapi saya masih berkeyakinan "get it right the first time" akan lebih optimal.
Ada 2 hal terakhir saat sebelum kita menekan shutter:
- Apakah horizonya sudah lurus, ada beberapa cara untuk bisa mendapatkan horion lurus saat eksekusi di lapangan, lihat #11
- Apakah horizon sdh di komposisikan dgn baik, lihat #5 untuk pengaplikasian Rule of third. Peraturan/rule kadang dibuat untuk dilangar, tapi jika scene yang akan kita buat tidak cukup kuat (strong) elementnya, biasanya Rule of Third akan sangat membantu membuat komposisi menjadi lebih baik. Memang dgn croping nantinya di software pengolah gambar, kita bisa memperbaikinya. Tapi kalau tidak dgn terpaksa, lebih baik pada saat eksekusi kita sudah menempatkan horizon pada posisi yang sebaiknya.
Contoh foto dibawah adalah salah satu dr foto yang saya ambil amannya (save) untuk posisi horizon pada saat eksekusi. Oleh krn itu horizon saya letakkan pas ditengah saja, dgn harapan pada saat itu, saya bisa melakukan cropping nantinya (baik dicrop bagian atas atau pun bagian bawah).
contoh horizon yang lurus:
10.Change viewpoint/angleKadang kita terpaku dgn sudut pandang atau angle yang umum kita lakukan, atau mungkin kalau kita mengunjungi suatu tempat yang sering kita lihat fotonya baik itu dimajalah atau website seperti di FN ini, kita menjadi "latah" dan memotret dgn angle yang sama.
Banyak cara untuk mendapatkan fresh point of view. Tidak selamanya "eye-level angle" (posisi normal saat kita berdiri) dalam memotret itu yang terbaik. Coba dgn high-angle (kamera diangkat diatas kepala), waist-level angle, low level, dst, coba berbagai format horizontal dan/atau vertikal.
Atau mencoba mencari spot atau titik berdiri yang berbeda atau tempat yang berbeda, misalnya dari atas pohon (ada memang fotografer senior yang saya kenal yang senang memanjat pohon untuk utk mendapatkan view yg berbeda, dan hasilnya memang berbeda dan unik), atau mencoba berdiri lebih ketepi jurang, atau bahkan tiduran ditanah... tentu saja dgn lebih mengutamakan keselamatan anda sendiri sbg faktor yang lebih utama dan menghitung resiko yang mungkin didapatkan.
Satu hal yang harus dipahami, mencoba dengan sudut pandang yang berbeda tidak selalu otomatis gambar kita akan lebih bagus atau lebih baik, tapi begitu sekali anda mendapatkan yang lebih bagus, dijamin pasti berbeda dgn yang lain.
Dengan sering ber-experimen dgn berbagai angle, lama-kelamaan insting anda akan terlatih saat berada di lapangan untuk mendapatkan tidak hanya angle yang bagus, tapi juga berbeda.
Jangan memotret berulang2 pada satu titik/spot. Cobalah untuk bergeser beberapa meter kesamping atau kedepan, atau bahkan berjalan jauh.
Juga sesekali coba untuk menoleh kebelakang untuk melihat, kadang bisa mendapatkan angle yang menarik dan berbeda.
3-5 exposure/jepretan pada satu titik dan "move on, change spot, change orientation (landscape <-> portrait), look back, change lenses".
Terutama jika anda sering travelling, baik itu ke tempat yang sudah umum atau ke tempat yang jarang di kunjungi fotografer. Ada kalanya kita ada pada suatu spot dimana foto dari lokasi itu sudah merupakan lokasi "sejuta umat" dimana ratusan bahkan ribuan fotografer pernah memotret di spot yg sama dan menghasilkan foto yang mirip atau beda-beda tipis.
Gunakan foto-foto yang sering anda lihat tersebut sebagai referensi, pelajari dan aplikasikan tekniknya dan coba menemukan sesuatu yang berbeda. Make a difference.
Kalau tidak keberatan tiduran sejenak di aspal
11.use the tool
Penggunaan beberapa peralatan bantu dibawah akan sangat membantu untuk mendapatkan foto landscape yang lebih baik.
- CPL filter
- ND filter
- Graduated ND filter
- Graduated color filter
- Bubble level jika tdk ada grid pada view finder atau gunakan focusing screen dgn grid, sangat membantu untuk mencapai levelnya horizon.
12. lensa yang digunakan
Kadang sering ada asumsi bahwa sebuah foto landscape itu harus menggunakan lensa yang selebar mungkin. Tapi dalam membuat sebuah foto landscape, semua lensa dapat dipergunakan, dari lensa super wide (14mm, 16mm, dst), wide (20mm - 35m), medium, (50mm - 85mm), hingga tele/super tele (100mm - 600mm). Semua range lensa bisa dan dapat dipergunakan.
Semua itu tergantung atas kebutuhan dan scene yang kita hadapi. Lensa wide/super wide kadang dibutuhkan jika kita ingin merangkum sebuah scene seluas-luasnya dgn memasukan object yang banyak atau yang berjauhan atau ingin mendapatkan perspektif yg unik.Tapi kadang sebuah tele bisa digunakan untuk mengisolasi scene sehingga lebih un-cluttered, simple dan focus.
Jika tiba pada suatu lokasi/spot, usahakan mencoba dgn semua lensa yang anda bawa. Jangan terpaku pada satu lensa dan memotret berulang-ulang.
Kadang diperlukan kejelian, untuk melihat dan mencari suatu bentuk unik atau pattern dari luasnya sebuah scene landscape, sehingga kita dapat meng-isolasi dgn menggunakan lensa yang tepat. Hanya dengan sering memotret dan menghadapi berbagai scene di berbagai kondisi yang dapat mengasah insting anda, baik itu object apa yang harus dicari ataupun lensa apa yg harus dipergunakan.
Penggunaan lensa yg tidak standard seperti fish-eye (baik itu yang diagonal maupun yang full-circular) bisa juga mendapatkan view yang menarik, tentu dgn pengunaan pada saat yang tepat. Tidak selalu penggunaan fish-eye menghasilkan foto yg "bagus" walau memang berbeda.
Contoh foto landscape dgn lensa 200mm
Contoh foto landscape dgn lensa 300mm
Penggunaan lensa fish-eye
sumber:
kaskus.us
By: indoagam
http://fotografer.net
By: Yadi Yasin
Read more »
Sebuah pendekatan konsep normal dari sebuah landscape photography adalah "tajam dari ujung kaki sampai ke ujung horizon". Konsep dasar teori "oldies" ini menyatakan bahwa sebuah foto landscape selayaknya sebanyak mungkin semua bagian dari foto adalah focus (tajam). Untuk mendapatkan ketajaman lebar atau dgn kata lain bidang depth of focus (DOF) yang selebar2nya, bisa menggunakan apperture (bukaan diafragma) yang sekecil mungkin (f number besar), misalnya f14, f16, f18, f22, f32, dst. Sehingga dengan semakin kecilnya apperture, berarti semakin lamanya exposure.
Karena keterbatasan lensa (yang tidak mampu mencapai f32 dan/atau f64) atau posisi spot di mana kita berdiri tidak mendukung, sebuah pendekatan lain bisa kita gunakan, yaitu teori hyper-focal, untuk mendapatkan bidang fokus yang "optimal" sesuai dgn scene yang kita hadapi. Inti dari jarak hyper-focal adalah meletakan titik focus pada posisi yang tepat untuk mendapatkan bidang focus yg seluas-luasnya yg dimungkinkan sehingga akan tajam dari FG hingga ke BG.
contoh:
Dengan DoF lebar, akibat penggunaan f/20 dan pengaplikasian hyper-focal distance untuk menentukan focus
2. use tripod dan cable release
akibat dari semakin lebarnya DOF yang berakibat semakin lamanya exposure, dibutuhkan tripod untuk long exposure untuk menjamin agar foto yang dihasilkan tajamkarena akan mengurangi getaran pada saat mengambil gambar. Disini kita juga dapat menggunakan Cable release dan fungsi akan image stabilizer (Canon) atau VR (Nikon) akan sangat membantu untuk menghasilkan gambar yang lebih baik.
3. look for Focal point or titik focus
Titik focus disini bukanlah titik dimana focus dari kamera diletakkan, tapi lebih merupakan titik dimana mata akan pertama kali tertuju (eye-contact) saat melihat foto.
Sebuah foto yang tanpa focal point, akan membuat mata "wandering" tanpa sempat berhenti, yang mengakibatkan kehilangan ketertarikan pada sebah foto landscape. Sering foto seperti itu disebut datar (bland) saja.
Focal point bisa berupa berupa bangunan (yg kecil atau unik diantara dataran kosong), pohon (yg berdiri sendiri), batu (atau sekumpulan batu), orang atau binatang, atau siluet bentuk yg kontrast dgn BG, dst.
Peletakan dimana focal point juga kadang sangat berpengaruh, disini aturan "oldies" Rule of Third bermain.
contoh di bawah, focal point adalah orang berpayung yang berbaju merah
Focal point adalah pada matahari dan pantulannya di sawah:
4. Look for Foreground (FG)
Foreground bisa menjadi focal point bahkan menjadi POI (Point of Interest) dalam foto landscape anda.
Oleh sebab itu carilah sebuah FG yang kuat.
Sebuah object atau pattern di FG bisa membuat "sense of scale" dr foto landscape kita.
contoh penerapan FG pada batu
contoh dengan FG pada rumput:
5.Select the sky or land
Langit yang berawan bergelora, apalagi pada saat sunset atau sunrise, akan membuat foto kita menarik, tapi kita tetap harus memilih apakah kita akan membuat foto kita sebagian besar terdiri dari langit dgn meletakan horizon sedikit dibawah, atau sebagian besar daratan dgn meletakkan horizon sedikit dibagian atas.
Seberapa bagus pun daratan dan langit yang kita temui/hadapi saat memotret, membagi 2 sama bagian antara langit yang dramatis dan daratan/FG yang menarik akan membuat foto landscape menjadi tidak focus, krn kedua bagian tersebut sama bagusnya.
Komposisi dgn menggunakan prisip "oldies" Rule of Third akan sangat membantu. Letakkan garis horizon, di 1/3 bagian atas kalau kita ingin menonjolkan (emphasize) FG nya, atau letakkan horizon di 1/3 bagian bawah, kalau kita ingin menonjolkan langitnya.
Tentu saja hukum "Rule of Third" bisa dilanggar, andai pelanggaran itu justru memperkuat focal point dan bukan sebaliknya. Juga tidak selalu dead center adalah jelek.
contoh dibawah daratan lebih mendominasi daripada langit
6.Carilah Garis/Lines/Pattern
Sebuah garis atau pattern bisa membuat/menjadi focal yang akan menggiring mata untuk lebih jauh mengexplore foto landscape anda. Kadang leading lines atau pattern tersebut bahkan bisa menjadi POI dari foto tersebut.
Garis-garis, juga bisa memberikan sense of scale atau image depth (kedalaman ruang).
Garis atau pattern bisa berupa apa saja, deretan pohon, bayangan, garis jalan,tangga, dst.
7. Capture moment & movement
Sebuah foto Landcsape tidak berarti kita hanya menangkap (capture) langit, bumi atau gunung, tapi semua elemen alam, baik itu diam atau bergerak seperti air terjun, aliran sungai, pohon2 yang bergerak, pergerakan awan, dst, dapat menjadikan sebuah foto landscape yang menarik.
8. Golden Hours & Blue hours
Pada normal colour landscape photography, saat terbaik biasanya adalah saat sekitar (sebelum) matahari terbenam (sunset) atau setelah matahari terbit (sunrise).
Golden hours adalah saat, biasanya 1-2 jam sebelum matahari terbenam (sunset) hingga 30 menit sebelum matahari terbenam, dan 1-3 jam sejak matahari terbit, dimana "golden light" atau sinar matahari akan membuat warna keemasaan pada object.
contoh:
Blue hours adalah beberapa saat, biasanya hingga 20-30 menit setelah matahari terbenam (sunset), dimana matahari sudah tebenam, tapi langit belum gelap hitam pekat. Pada saat ini langit akan berwarna biru.
Jadi adalah kurang tepat, bahwa pada saat matahari sudah terbenam dan langit mulai gelap (oleh mata kita), kita langsung mengemas/beres2 gear/tripod kita. Justru pada saat ini kita bisa mendapatkan sebuah scene yang bagus dimana langit akan berwarna biru dan tidak hitam pekat. Biasanya dgn long exposure, awan pun (walau kalau kita lihat dgn mata telanjang sdh tidak tampak) masih akan terlihat jelas dan memberikan texture pada langit biru.
contoh:
Jika kita memotret pada saat golden hours sudah lewat, atau pada saat matahari sudah terik, biasanya hasilnya akan flat atau harsh lightingnya krn matahari sudah jauh diatas.
Ini berlawananan dgn IR landscape photography yg tidak mengenal golden hours, dimana saat terbaik justru pada saat tengah teriknya matahari.
9. Cek Horizon
Walaupun sekarang dgn mudah kesalahan ini dapat di koreksi dgn image editor tapi saya masih berkeyakinan "get it right the first time" akan lebih optimal.
Ada 2 hal terakhir saat sebelum kita menekan shutter:
- Apakah horizonya sudah lurus, ada beberapa cara untuk bisa mendapatkan horion lurus saat eksekusi di lapangan, lihat #11
- Apakah horizon sdh di komposisikan dgn baik, lihat #5 untuk pengaplikasian Rule of third. Peraturan/rule kadang dibuat untuk dilangar, tapi jika scene yang akan kita buat tidak cukup kuat (strong) elementnya, biasanya Rule of Third akan sangat membantu membuat komposisi menjadi lebih baik. Memang dgn croping nantinya di software pengolah gambar, kita bisa memperbaikinya. Tapi kalau tidak dgn terpaksa, lebih baik pada saat eksekusi kita sudah menempatkan horizon pada posisi yang sebaiknya.
Contoh foto dibawah adalah salah satu dr foto yang saya ambil amannya (save) untuk posisi horizon pada saat eksekusi. Oleh krn itu horizon saya letakkan pas ditengah saja, dgn harapan pada saat itu, saya bisa melakukan cropping nantinya (baik dicrop bagian atas atau pun bagian bawah).
10.Change viewpoint/angleKadang kita terpaku dgn sudut pandang atau angle yang umum kita lakukan, atau mungkin kalau kita mengunjungi suatu tempat yang sering kita lihat fotonya baik itu dimajalah atau website seperti di FN ini, kita menjadi "latah" dan memotret dgn angle yang sama.
Banyak cara untuk mendapatkan fresh point of view. Tidak selamanya "eye-level angle" (posisi normal saat kita berdiri) dalam memotret itu yang terbaik. Coba dgn high-angle (kamera diangkat diatas kepala), waist-level angle, low level, dst, coba berbagai format horizontal dan/atau vertikal.
Atau mencoba mencari spot atau titik berdiri yang berbeda atau tempat yang berbeda, misalnya dari atas pohon (ada memang fotografer senior yang saya kenal yang senang memanjat pohon untuk utk mendapatkan view yg berbeda, dan hasilnya memang berbeda dan unik), atau mencoba berdiri lebih ketepi jurang, atau bahkan tiduran ditanah... tentu saja dgn lebih mengutamakan keselamatan anda sendiri sbg faktor yang lebih utama dan menghitung resiko yang mungkin didapatkan.
Satu hal yang harus dipahami, mencoba dengan sudut pandang yang berbeda tidak selalu otomatis gambar kita akan lebih bagus atau lebih baik, tapi begitu sekali anda mendapatkan yang lebih bagus, dijamin pasti berbeda dgn yang lain.
Dengan sering ber-experimen dgn berbagai angle, lama-kelamaan insting anda akan terlatih saat berada di lapangan untuk mendapatkan tidak hanya angle yang bagus, tapi juga berbeda.
Jangan memotret berulang2 pada satu titik/spot. Cobalah untuk bergeser beberapa meter kesamping atau kedepan, atau bahkan berjalan jauh.
Juga sesekali coba untuk menoleh kebelakang untuk melihat, kadang bisa mendapatkan angle yang menarik dan berbeda.
3-5 exposure/jepretan pada satu titik dan "move on, change spot, change orientation (landscape <-> portrait), look back, change lenses".
Terutama jika anda sering travelling, baik itu ke tempat yang sudah umum atau ke tempat yang jarang di kunjungi fotografer. Ada kalanya kita ada pada suatu spot dimana foto dari lokasi itu sudah merupakan lokasi "sejuta umat" dimana ratusan bahkan ribuan fotografer pernah memotret di spot yg sama dan menghasilkan foto yang mirip atau beda-beda tipis.
Gunakan foto-foto yang sering anda lihat tersebut sebagai referensi, pelajari dan aplikasikan tekniknya dan coba menemukan sesuatu yang berbeda. Make a difference.
Kalau tidak keberatan tiduran sejenak di aspal
11.use the tool
Penggunaan beberapa peralatan bantu dibawah akan sangat membantu untuk mendapatkan foto landscape yang lebih baik.
- CPL filter
- ND filter
- Graduated ND filter
- Graduated color filter
- Bubble level jika tdk ada grid pada view finder atau gunakan focusing screen dgn grid, sangat membantu untuk mencapai levelnya horizon.
12. lensa yang digunakan
Kadang sering ada asumsi bahwa sebuah foto landscape itu harus menggunakan lensa yang selebar mungkin. Tapi dalam membuat sebuah foto landscape, semua lensa dapat dipergunakan, dari lensa super wide (14mm, 16mm, dst), wide (20mm - 35m), medium, (50mm - 85mm), hingga tele/super tele (100mm - 600mm). Semua range lensa bisa dan dapat dipergunakan.
Semua itu tergantung atas kebutuhan dan scene yang kita hadapi. Lensa wide/super wide kadang dibutuhkan jika kita ingin merangkum sebuah scene seluas-luasnya dgn memasukan object yang banyak atau yang berjauhan atau ingin mendapatkan perspektif yg unik.Tapi kadang sebuah tele bisa digunakan untuk mengisolasi scene sehingga lebih un-cluttered, simple dan focus.
Jika tiba pada suatu lokasi/spot, usahakan mencoba dgn semua lensa yang anda bawa. Jangan terpaku pada satu lensa dan memotret berulang-ulang.
Kadang diperlukan kejelian, untuk melihat dan mencari suatu bentuk unik atau pattern dari luasnya sebuah scene landscape, sehingga kita dapat meng-isolasi dgn menggunakan lensa yang tepat. Hanya dengan sering memotret dan menghadapi berbagai scene di berbagai kondisi yang dapat mengasah insting anda, baik itu object apa yang harus dicari ataupun lensa apa yg harus dipergunakan.
Penggunaan lensa yg tidak standard seperti fish-eye (baik itu yang diagonal maupun yang full-circular) bisa juga mendapatkan view yang menarik, tentu dgn pengunaan pada saat yang tepat. Tidak selalu penggunaan fish-eye menghasilkan foto yg "bagus" walau memang berbeda.
Contoh foto landscape dgn lensa 200mm
Contoh foto landscape dgn lensa 300mm
Penggunaan lensa fish-eye
sumber:
kaskus.us
By: indoagam
http://fotografer.net
By: Yadi Yasin
Senin, 29 November 2010
Aperture Digital Photography Fundamentals.pdf
17.48
fandy
Taken from Preface:Aperture is a powerful digital photography application designed to help you produce the best images possible. However, many factors outside of Aperture can affect the quality of your images. Being mindful of all these factors can help prevent undesirable results.
The following chapters explain how your camera captures a digital image, how images are displayed onscreen and in print, and how cameras, displays, and printers measure image resolution.
Contents:
- Preface: An Introduction to Digital Photography Fundamentals
- Chapter 1: How Digital Cameras Capture Images [ Types of Digital Cameras ~ Digital Single-Lens Reflex (DSLR) ~ Digital Rangefinder ~ Camera Components and Concepts ~ Lens ~ Understanding Lens Multiplication with DSLRs ~ Understanding Digital Zoom ~ Aperture ~ Understanding Lens Speed ~ Shutter ~ Using Reciprocity to Compose Your Image ~ Digital Image Sensor ~ Memory Card ~ External Flash ~ Understanding RAW, JPEG, and TIFF ~ RAW ~ Why Shoot RAW Files? ~ JPEG ~ TIFF ~ Shooting Tips ~ Reducing Camera Shake ~ Minimizing Red-Eye in Your Photos ~ Reducing Digital Noise ]
- Chapter 2: How Digital Images Are Displayed [ The Human Eye's Subjective View of Color ~ Understanding How the Eye Sees Light and Color ~ Sources of Light ~ The Color Temperature of Light ~ How White Balance Establishes Color Temperature ~ Measuring the Intensity of Light ~ Bracketing the Exposure of an Image ~ Understanding How a Digital Image Is Displayed ~ Additive vs. Subtractive Color ~ Understanding Color Gamut ~ Displaying Images Onscreen ~ The Importance of Color Calibrating Your Display ~ Apple Cinema Displays Are Proof Perfect ~ Displaying Images in Print ~ Printer Types ]
- Chapter 3: Understanding Resolution [ Demystifying Resolution ~ Learning About Pixels ~ Learning About Bit Depth ~ How Resolution Measurement Changes from Device to Device ~ Mapping Resolution from Camera to Printer ~ Camera Resolution ~ Display Resolution ~ About the Differences Between CRT and Flat-Panel Display ~ Printer Resolution ~ Calculating Color and Understanding Floating Point ~ Learning About Bit Depth and Quantization ~ Learning About the Relationship Between Floating Point ~ Understanding How Aperture Uses Floating Point ]
This manual is available FREE at Apple website, we merely collect the information, we are neither affiliated with the author(s), the website and Apple brand nor responsible for its content and change of content. (Read our disclaimer here or here before you download the document from the website written above by clicking the below link).
Download free Aperture Digital Photography Fundamentals.pdf
Nikon Launches New Global Website for Pro Photographers
17.35
fandy
NOVEMBER 11, 2010
PRESS RELEASE
TOKYO – Nikon Corporation is pleased to announce the launch of the new Nikon Professional Services (NPS) global website today. The new NPS Global site, located at http://nps.nikonimaging.com , will serve as one of the measures in which Nikon reinforces its services for professional photographers.
NPS is a membership organization through which Nikon offers support and services to professional photographers throughout the world. For nearly half a century, NPS has not only provided routine maintenance and repair services for professional photographers' equipment, but has also provided support for them at international events held throughout the world. With the expansion of Nikon's lineups of high-end digital-SLR cameras, NIKKOR lenses and other accessories, the NPS Global site has been developed to serve as a portal that distributes the latest information to assist NPS members working globally in their photographic activities.
In addition to introducing an overview of NPS activities, the NPS Global site will offer members greater convenience. For example, it provides: links to regional NPS sites to find out about practical local information, local service facility list for photographers to visit when they face with equipment problems while they are on overseas assignment, and world-wide NPS service depot information. The site will also offer contents, such as the introduction of effective techniques for using professional equipment. All of these information can be accessed by professional and advanced amateur photographers who are not NPS members.
As a manufacturer of imaging products that leads the professional industry, Nikon will continue to expand and enhance the contents of the NPS Global site and offer new services that fulfill user needs in order to reinforce its support and service organization.
NPS Global site overview
Primary contents
• Basic information (About NPS) Provides an overview of NPS activities, support and services available to members, and also serves as a service network for members who are on assignment at overseas
• Event support information (Event Support) Introduces information on NPS service depots set up at international events held throughout the world
• Worldwide NPS contact information (NPS Global Network) Provides links to, and contact information for, the NPS organization in each country
• Introduction of NPS members (Members) Introduces the activities and work of NPS members who are active internationally
• Equipment tips (Technical Solutions) Provides explanations and tips for the effective use of professional equipments
NPS
NPS is a Nikon organization designed solely to assist qualified, full-time professional photographers who earn their living using Nikon equipment. The organization is currently operating in approximately 30 countries with primary functions to provide equipment maintenance and repair services and to provide on-site support for professional photographers working at international events.
Read more »
PRESS RELEASE
TOKYO – Nikon Corporation is pleased to announce the launch of the new Nikon Professional Services (NPS) global website today. The new NPS Global site, located at http://nps.nikonimaging.com , will serve as one of the measures in which Nikon reinforces its services for professional photographers.
NPS is a membership organization through which Nikon offers support and services to professional photographers throughout the world. For nearly half a century, NPS has not only provided routine maintenance and repair services for professional photographers' equipment, but has also provided support for them at international events held throughout the world. With the expansion of Nikon's lineups of high-end digital-SLR cameras, NIKKOR lenses and other accessories, the NPS Global site has been developed to serve as a portal that distributes the latest information to assist NPS members working globally in their photographic activities.
In addition to introducing an overview of NPS activities, the NPS Global site will offer members greater convenience. For example, it provides: links to regional NPS sites to find out about practical local information, local service facility list for photographers to visit when they face with equipment problems while they are on overseas assignment, and world-wide NPS service depot information. The site will also offer contents, such as the introduction of effective techniques for using professional equipment. All of these information can be accessed by professional and advanced amateur photographers who are not NPS members.
As a manufacturer of imaging products that leads the professional industry, Nikon will continue to expand and enhance the contents of the NPS Global site and offer new services that fulfill user needs in order to reinforce its support and service organization.
NPS Global site overview
Primary contents
• Basic information (About NPS) Provides an overview of NPS activities, support and services available to members, and also serves as a service network for members who are on assignment at overseas
• Event support information (Event Support) Introduces information on NPS service depots set up at international events held throughout the world
• Worldwide NPS contact information (NPS Global Network) Provides links to, and contact information for, the NPS organization in each country
• Introduction of NPS members (Members) Introduces the activities and work of NPS members who are active internationally
• Equipment tips (Technical Solutions) Provides explanations and tips for the effective use of professional equipments
NPS
NPS is a Nikon organization designed solely to assist qualified, full-time professional photographers who earn their living using Nikon equipment. The organization is currently operating in approximately 30 countries with primary functions to provide equipment maintenance and repair services and to provide on-site support for professional photographers working at international events.
Passion for Photography 10 Tips.pdf
17.13
fandy
Good reading material on photography tips, compiled by April Blaine Hite. April has a great passion for photography and has had this passion all her life.
Thru this light photography ebook, April shares her ideas on capturing various photography scenes.
Below are some tips in this free photography ebook:
- Simple window photo
- Halloween photo
- Lollipops and kids or adults
- Face shot with flowers
- Peeking thru flowers
- Simple pillows shot
- Leaning around a tree
- Loving pregnancy picture
- Feet in water or puddle picture
- Smelling a flower picture
This photography reference is available FREE at Free Webs website, we merely collect the information, we are neither affiliated with the author(s), the website and any brand nor responsible for its content and change of content. (Read our disclaimer here or here before you download the document from the website written above by clicking the below link).
Download free photography tips: http://www.4shared.com/document/UMpobhWP/passionforphotographytips.html
Hasselblad Unveils Stainless Steel H4D-40 Medium-Format Camera
16.54
fandy
NOVEMBER 29, 2010
New from Hasselblad: the Stainless Steel H4D-40 - as beautiful as it is strong
Copenhagen, November 26th 2010 -- In response to photographer requests after seeing the solid steel body around which all H4Ds are built at photokina, Hasselblad is now producing a limited run of 100 H4D-40 Stainless Steel cameras.
Revealing the solid stainless steel body that's at the core of all H4D-40's generated excitement among photographers not only because it demonstrated the camera's core strength but also because of its unique look and appealing aesthetic. Now, for a limited time, photographers who want their camera to look as striking as their pictures, can purchase the H4D-40 Stainless Steel for 13,990 Euros (body only +tax) est. $18,500; or 14,990 Euros (with HC 2.8/80mm lens +tax) est. $19,824.
The award-winning H4D-40 features Hasselblad's groundbreaking True Focus and Absolute Position Lock technology as well as the latest in extended functionality, including an electronic spirit level, previews in tethered mode, and a new graphical information display. With these advanced features, Hasselblad continues to develop the ultimate camera system for discerning photographers.
For more information on the H4D-40 Stainless Steel, please, visit the Hasselblad website at:http://www.hasselblad.de/promotions/h4d-40-stainless-steel.aspx
source
http://www.pdnonline.com
Read more »
PRESS RELEASE
Copenhagen, November 26th 2010 -- In response to photographer requests after seeing the solid steel body around which all H4Ds are built at photokina, Hasselblad is now producing a limited run of 100 H4D-40 Stainless Steel cameras.
Revealing the solid stainless steel body that's at the core of all H4D-40's generated excitement among photographers not only because it demonstrated the camera's core strength but also because of its unique look and appealing aesthetic. Now, for a limited time, photographers who want their camera to look as striking as their pictures, can purchase the H4D-40 Stainless Steel for 13,990 Euros (body only +tax) est. $18,500; or 14,990 Euros (with HC 2.8/80mm lens +tax) est. $19,824.
The award-winning H4D-40 features Hasselblad's groundbreaking True Focus and Absolute Position Lock technology as well as the latest in extended functionality, including an electronic spirit level, previews in tethered mode, and a new graphical information display. With these advanced features, Hasselblad continues to develop the ultimate camera system for discerning photographers.
For more information on the H4D-40 Stainless Steel, please, visit the Hasselblad website at:http://www.hasselblad.de/promotions/h4d-40-stainless-steel.aspx
source
http://www.pdnonline.com
29 Techniques for Photoshop that you can use
07.27
fandy
1. Background blur
- Create a selection object
- Select feather 1-4, 2-6 smooth
- Select layer via copy ato press Ctrl + J
- Hide layer
- Select the background layer
- Select a filter - gaussian blur 6-10
- Activate the hidden layer had
2. Creating a comic drawing / cartoon of a photo with the filter
- Open the image file
- Select a filter - artistic - poster edges
- Select brightness 10, contrast 30
- Select Filer - artistic - cut out
3. Creating a shadow of the object
- Create a selection object
- Select layer via copy ato press Ctrl + J
- On a new layer, select edit - transform - flip vertical
- Move it to the bottom of the object
- Choose edit - distort to set high shadow
- Go into quick mask mode
- Refine the image by removing unwanted bagian2
- Exit the quick mask mode
- Set layer opacity 40%
4. Highlight color partially
- Create new adjustment layer -> hue - saturation
- Make sure the colorize option checked, set his Hue
- Select a hue-saturation layer, select brush tool, use this tool to create the desired color from the
5. Create an atmosphere of night
- Copy of the background layer
- Duplicate the layer to new layer
- Choose a new layer - Image-Adjust-Desaturate
- Select image - adjust - curves, click on the tengah2, and enter input values: 215 and Output: 158
- Select image - adjust - level
Input Levels 0 1.00 255
Output levels 0170
- The layer blending mode, select Multiply
6. create the effect of folded pages
- Create a new document, 200 x 250 pixel resolution 72, create a new layer
- Dg fill the desired color, eg R: 255 G: 255 B: 0
- Click the line tool, create a diagonal line from the lower left corner 30 degrees to the right
- At the bottom, use the magic wand select select, modify, expand by 1, then delete
- Use the polygonal lasso tool to form an upper fold
- Open the paths palette, click the small arrow icon, select Make Work Path
- Select the Convert Point Tool in the Pen Tool
- Click on the path, it would seem Anchor Points and Direction Lines
- Click and drag on the edges to create a curved effect
- On the path palette, click the small black arrow, and select Make Selection, Feather Radius = 0, Anti-Alias option = ON
- Delete the path that had been made
- Select linear gradient tool, linear gradient palette to open, edit the colors to be used
- Use color gradients to fold paper menggradasi
7. change the color of some object
- Copy layer, duplicate layer into a new
- Select Image - Adjust - replace color
- Change the Hue and Saturation to change his, such as Hue 120 and Saturation =- 44 =-
- Select the eyedropper +, click on the object to be colored bagian2
- Change fuzinnes slider to 60
- Use a layer mask to remove excess color / jembret
8. folding photo
- Open the image files, create layer from background
- Use the polygonal lasso tool for selection of parts to be folded
- If already selected, simply cut those sections
- Paste in new layer, it would appear that had been part dicut
- Select edit-transform, then flip horizontal and flip vertical. use the rotate if necessary
- Put in the correct position
- Selection of which will be curved, again with the polygonal lasso tool
- Choose the path palette, and press the little arrow icon, and select make work path
- Use the convert point tool and click on the path
- Adjust the angle of curvature corresponding
- Choose the path palette, and select the make selection
- Remove paths
- Delete the selection
9. create TV scanlines effect
- Create a new transparent document 1 x 3 pixels
- Second pixel fill with black color
- Click edit - define pattern
- Open the image that will be given effect
- Choose edit - fill, select a new pattern that we created earlier
- Set opacitynya to 50% - 30%
10. create a torn photo effect
- Open the image files we
- Use the Pen Tool, then create a path on which we will create part was quite. if necessary, we zoom to 300% in order to make a smooth tear effect. advised to make torn from top to middle of the photo.
- Right click on the Path, and select the Stroke to Path, continue the path to form a box outside the area of the photo
- On the path palette, right click and select Make Selection
- Selectionnya copy and paste in new layer
- Press CTRL and click on the new layer to select all objects
- Select the rectangular marque tool and select the interract with selection
- Choose edit - selection, right click on the selection, select distort
- Set the distortion to create the impression of a tear (not too wide)
- Use the drop shadow effect on the blending mode for more realistic impression
- Use the magic wand to eliminate unnecessary warna2
11. create a soft focus photo effect
- Go to our image file, press Ctrl + J to duplicate the layer
- Select a filter - gaussian blur, enter 5 pixels
- Select the layer mode: Overlay
12. create a stunning effect
- Open the image and copy to new layer
- Select a filter - gausian blur, enter a pixel on valuenya 13.0
- Set layer opacity to 50%
- Create a layer mask
- Select a brush dg 50% opacity, then brush into bagian2 object that will be maintained sharpness
13. make a quick sunset with the technique of gradient maps
- Open the image file
- Select new adjustment layer - gradient map
- Gradient menu will appear, select the one
- Enter the following values to set some color gradation
tab stops 1: # 000000; Location: 0%
tab stop 2: # 330000; Location: 41%
tab stops 3: # ff7c00; Location: 70%
tab stop 4: # f8eee4; Location: 100%
- When I click ok
- Set the blending mode to overlay
14. create 3D photo effects and curved
- Create new documents, we prepare a canvas for our image, gradient fills b / w
- Insert our image into the new document
- Set the blending mode - drop shadow
- Select edit - transform - perspective, set the direction in accordance with what we want
- Select a filter - distort, set the direction of the arch photo
15. Maintaining the color of objects in gray mode (black and white but there is a colored object)
- Open the image files we
- Select New Adjustment Layer - Channel Mixer
- Make sure the check box Monochrome active to make our image into grayscale
- Use a paint brush to polish the object you want displayed color
- Set opacitynya to create soft color
16. smooth the skin with the history brush
- Open the image files that will be refined
- Select a filter - gaussian blur - 8.0 pixel fill, our pictures will be blurry, while let
- Open to history, then click on the little arrow icon, select a history option, for this purpose, select the Allow non-linear history, With this, the steps that we created earlier, will not be lost
- Select new snapshot, this snapshot will become layer 'hidden', which will save the history of the gaussian blur filter that has been done previously.
- Click the new snapshot that emerged icon toolbrush history
- Still at the history, click the initial snapshot, this section MUST exist on the new snapshot
- Click the history brush tool, set the opacity to 40%, then start working the skin, set brushnya as needed.
17. make a heart shape with photographic images
- Open the image files that we want
- In the shape tool, choose the custom shape tool, make sure the choice of paths
- Select the desired shape form, eg liver
- After diapply on the layer, select Make Selection on the path palette
- Press Ctrl + X to cut options
- Open new document
- Paste form or shape that has been dicut
- Add a blending mode for the drop shadow and inner glow and finally stroke
18. turning photos into comic images
- Open the image files we
- Duplicate our layer by pressing Ctrl + J
- On a new layer, select the Color Dodge mode
- Press Ctrl + I to Inverse
- Select a filter - gaussian blur - enter the value 7
- Create a Threshold Adjustment Layer
- Enter the threshold level to 234
- Create a new layer Ctrl + Shift + Alt + N
- Change the blending mode to Multiply
- Select colors to begin painting with the brush tool
- To make titik2nya, select filter - sketch - halftone pattern, enter the value: size = 2, contrast = 50, type = dot pattern
19. create effect vehicle speed
- Open the car photo
- Duplicate the background layer
- Select a filter - motion blur, enter the number 3 on the corner, and 38 on its distance
- Create a layer mask on the new layer was
- Use the brush tool to reveal a picture of his car, while the background images will still look blur
20. make pixelate photo
- Open picture
- Duplicate the layer by pressing Ctrl + J
- On a new layer choose filter - texture - patchwork
- Enter the square size = 1, and reliefs = 0
21. copy the object by masking techniques (copying a particular section)
- Open image
- Copy layer as usual
- On a new layer, enter quick mask mode (press Q)
- Use a paint brush to paint the object to be copied
- If you've finished all, return to normal mode
- Will show the selection of the objects painted
- Press Ctrl + X or Ctrl + C to take part
22. create the effect of sunlight
- As usual, we need the image file, open file
- Create a new layer of background
- Select Filter - Render - Lens Flare
- Enter the brightness between 100-120%
- Select the appropriate type of lens
- Click Ok
23. make the fading effect
- Open the two images, eg scenery and photos closeup photos
- Insert closeup photos into the photo scene
- Use the eraser and magictool to remove the unwanted closeup photos
- Click the Add Vector Mask
- Select Gradient Tool Black to White
- Use from left to right
24. make custom brushes for abstract images
The first step, we make first brushnya
- Select new document, 500 x 500 pixel
- Select a filter - render - 3D Clouds
- Create a new layer, new adjustment layer, gradient map, select a suitable
- Select a filter - distort - Twirl, select less than 230 degrees
- Select a magic wand, tolerance 32-pixel
- Take shape as needed
- Choose select feather, fill with 6 pixel
- Select edit - define brush preset
25. The second step, the brush is ready for use
- Create a new document again
- Select a brush, set the master diameter to be 265
- Set options for shape dynamics, air brush, smoothing
- 100% set size jitter, angle jitter 100%
- Start by drawing on canvas
26. create text-style strawberry
first we make first patternnya
- Open a new file with size 100x100pixel
- Sets the fill color to D01111 and fill the new layer constrained
- Change the foreground color to be f2ea70
- Use the ellipse tool to draw a strawberry biji2
- Select blending options, outer glow, opacity set to 50%
- Duplicate layer until all the background filled with strawberries biji2
- If already selected edit-define pattern and name patternnya
27. then we will make the text
- Open a new file for example with dimensions 350x180
- Select the desired letter and make his writing
- Select a blending mode, Drop Shadow - Multiply with opacity of 30%
- Select Inner Shadow, set the color to be 870D0D
- Select Inner Glow, set the opacity to 75%
- Select bevel and emboss, select inner bevel-smooth with a depth of 100%
- Select pattern overlay, and enter the strawberry pattern that we have created earlier.
28. make gold text
- Enter the text you want and give color e1b917
- Blending modes, drop shadow, select opacitynya 50%
- Select inner shadow, modes: color dodge, color dabb0f
- Select bevel and emboss, select emboss with smooth technique with a depth of 90%, then select the shadow mode: Multiply by color 8a7410
- Select a satin, blend modes linear light with color 473b09
29. insert image in the text
the end result, our text will be colored with the image we prepared, steps:
- Open imagenya, then type any text
- On the text layer, press Ctrl + Click to select all text
- Select the image layer and press Ctrl + C and Ctrl + V
- Delete the text layer and the layer image
thanks to all who have visited this blogif there are additional you can post here
Read more »
- Create a selection object
- Select feather 1-4, 2-6 smooth
- Select layer via copy ato press Ctrl + J
- Hide layer
- Select the background layer
- Select a filter - gaussian blur 6-10
- Activate the hidden layer had
2. Creating a comic drawing / cartoon of a photo with the filter
- Open the image file
- Select a filter - artistic - poster edges
- Select brightness 10, contrast 30
- Select Filer - artistic - cut out
3. Creating a shadow of the object
- Create a selection object
- Select layer via copy ato press Ctrl + J
- On a new layer, select edit - transform - flip vertical
- Move it to the bottom of the object
- Choose edit - distort to set high shadow
- Go into quick mask mode
- Refine the image by removing unwanted bagian2
- Exit the quick mask mode
- Set layer opacity 40%
4. Highlight color partially
- Create new adjustment layer -> hue - saturation
- Make sure the colorize option checked, set his Hue
- Select a hue-saturation layer, select brush tool, use this tool to create the desired color from the
5. Create an atmosphere of night
- Copy of the background layer
- Duplicate the layer to new layer
- Choose a new layer - Image-Adjust-Desaturate
- Select image - adjust - curves, click on the tengah2, and enter input values: 215 and Output: 158
- Select image - adjust - level
Input Levels 0 1.00 255
Output levels 0170
- The layer blending mode, select Multiply
6. create the effect of folded pages
- Create a new document, 200 x 250 pixel resolution 72, create a new layer
- Dg fill the desired color, eg R: 255 G: 255 B: 0
- Click the line tool, create a diagonal line from the lower left corner 30 degrees to the right
- At the bottom, use the magic wand select select, modify, expand by 1, then delete
- Use the polygonal lasso tool to form an upper fold
- Open the paths palette, click the small arrow icon, select Make Work Path
- Select the Convert Point Tool in the Pen Tool
- Click on the path, it would seem Anchor Points and Direction Lines
- Click and drag on the edges to create a curved effect
- On the path palette, click the small black arrow, and select Make Selection, Feather Radius = 0, Anti-Alias option = ON
- Delete the path that had been made
- Select linear gradient tool, linear gradient palette to open, edit the colors to be used
- Use color gradients to fold paper menggradasi
7. change the color of some object
- Copy layer, duplicate layer into a new
- Select Image - Adjust - replace color
- Change the Hue and Saturation to change his, such as Hue 120 and Saturation =- 44 =-
- Select the eyedropper +, click on the object to be colored bagian2
- Change fuzinnes slider to 60
- Use a layer mask to remove excess color / jembret
8. folding photo
- Open the image files, create layer from background
- Use the polygonal lasso tool for selection of parts to be folded
- If already selected, simply cut those sections
- Paste in new layer, it would appear that had been part dicut
- Select edit-transform, then flip horizontal and flip vertical. use the rotate if necessary
- Put in the correct position
- Selection of which will be curved, again with the polygonal lasso tool
- Choose the path palette, and press the little arrow icon, and select make work path
- Use the convert point tool and click on the path
- Adjust the angle of curvature corresponding
- Choose the path palette, and select the make selection
- Remove paths
- Delete the selection
9. create TV scanlines effect
- Create a new transparent document 1 x 3 pixels
- Second pixel fill with black color
- Click edit - define pattern
- Open the image that will be given effect
- Choose edit - fill, select a new pattern that we created earlier
- Set opacitynya to 50% - 30%
10. create a torn photo effect
- Open the image files we
- Use the Pen Tool, then create a path on which we will create part was quite. if necessary, we zoom to 300% in order to make a smooth tear effect. advised to make torn from top to middle of the photo.
- Right click on the Path, and select the Stroke to Path, continue the path to form a box outside the area of the photo
- On the path palette, right click and select Make Selection
- Selectionnya copy and paste in new layer
- Press CTRL and click on the new layer to select all objects
- Select the rectangular marque tool and select the interract with selection
- Choose edit - selection, right click on the selection, select distort
- Set the distortion to create the impression of a tear (not too wide)
- Use the drop shadow effect on the blending mode for more realistic impression
- Use the magic wand to eliminate unnecessary warna2
11. create a soft focus photo effect
- Go to our image file, press Ctrl + J to duplicate the layer
- Select a filter - gaussian blur, enter 5 pixels
- Select the layer mode: Overlay
12. create a stunning effect
- Open the image and copy to new layer
- Select a filter - gausian blur, enter a pixel on valuenya 13.0
- Set layer opacity to 50%
- Create a layer mask
- Select a brush dg 50% opacity, then brush into bagian2 object that will be maintained sharpness
13. make a quick sunset with the technique of gradient maps
- Open the image file
- Select new adjustment layer - gradient map
- Gradient menu will appear, select the one
- Enter the following values to set some color gradation
tab stops 1: # 000000; Location: 0%
tab stop 2: # 330000; Location: 41%
tab stops 3: # ff7c00; Location: 70%
tab stop 4: # f8eee4; Location: 100%
- When I click ok
- Set the blending mode to overlay
14. create 3D photo effects and curved
- Create new documents, we prepare a canvas for our image, gradient fills b / w
- Insert our image into the new document
- Set the blending mode - drop shadow
- Select edit - transform - perspective, set the direction in accordance with what we want
- Select a filter - distort, set the direction of the arch photo
15. Maintaining the color of objects in gray mode (black and white but there is a colored object)
- Open the image files we
- Select New Adjustment Layer - Channel Mixer
- Make sure the check box Monochrome active to make our image into grayscale
- Use a paint brush to polish the object you want displayed color
- Set opacitynya to create soft color
16. smooth the skin with the history brush
- Open the image files that will be refined
- Select a filter - gaussian blur - 8.0 pixel fill, our pictures will be blurry, while let
- Open to history, then click on the little arrow icon, select a history option, for this purpose, select the Allow non-linear history, With this, the steps that we created earlier, will not be lost
- Select new snapshot, this snapshot will become layer 'hidden', which will save the history of the gaussian blur filter that has been done previously.
- Click the new snapshot that emerged icon toolbrush history
- Still at the history, click the initial snapshot, this section MUST exist on the new snapshot
- Click the history brush tool, set the opacity to 40%, then start working the skin, set brushnya as needed.
17. make a heart shape with photographic images
- Open the image files that we want
- In the shape tool, choose the custom shape tool, make sure the choice of paths
- Select the desired shape form, eg liver
- After diapply on the layer, select Make Selection on the path palette
- Press Ctrl + X to cut options
- Open new document
- Paste form or shape that has been dicut
- Add a blending mode for the drop shadow and inner glow and finally stroke
18. turning photos into comic images
- Open the image files we
- Duplicate our layer by pressing Ctrl + J
- On a new layer, select the Color Dodge mode
- Press Ctrl + I to Inverse
- Select a filter - gaussian blur - enter the value 7
- Create a Threshold Adjustment Layer
- Enter the threshold level to 234
- Create a new layer Ctrl + Shift + Alt + N
- Change the blending mode to Multiply
- Select colors to begin painting with the brush tool
- To make titik2nya, select filter - sketch - halftone pattern, enter the value: size = 2, contrast = 50, type = dot pattern
19. create effect vehicle speed
- Open the car photo
- Duplicate the background layer
- Select a filter - motion blur, enter the number 3 on the corner, and 38 on its distance
- Create a layer mask on the new layer was
- Use the brush tool to reveal a picture of his car, while the background images will still look blur
20. make pixelate photo
- Open picture
- Duplicate the layer by pressing Ctrl + J
- On a new layer choose filter - texture - patchwork
- Enter the square size = 1, and reliefs = 0
21. copy the object by masking techniques (copying a particular section)
- Open image
- Copy layer as usual
- On a new layer, enter quick mask mode (press Q)
- Use a paint brush to paint the object to be copied
- If you've finished all, return to normal mode
- Will show the selection of the objects painted
- Press Ctrl + X or Ctrl + C to take part
22. create the effect of sunlight
- As usual, we need the image file, open file
- Create a new layer of background
- Select Filter - Render - Lens Flare
- Enter the brightness between 100-120%
- Select the appropriate type of lens
- Click Ok
23. make the fading effect
- Open the two images, eg scenery and photos closeup photos
- Insert closeup photos into the photo scene
- Use the eraser and magictool to remove the unwanted closeup photos
- Click the Add Vector Mask
- Select Gradient Tool Black to White
- Use from left to right
24. make custom brushes for abstract images
The first step, we make first brushnya
- Select new document, 500 x 500 pixel
- Select a filter - render - 3D Clouds
- Create a new layer, new adjustment layer, gradient map, select a suitable
- Select a filter - distort - Twirl, select less than 230 degrees
- Select a magic wand, tolerance 32-pixel
- Take shape as needed
- Choose select feather, fill with 6 pixel
- Select edit - define brush preset
25. The second step, the brush is ready for use
- Create a new document again
- Select a brush, set the master diameter to be 265
- Set options for shape dynamics, air brush, smoothing
- 100% set size jitter, angle jitter 100%
- Start by drawing on canvas
26. create text-style strawberry
first we make first patternnya
- Open a new file with size 100x100pixel
- Sets the fill color to D01111 and fill the new layer constrained
- Change the foreground color to be f2ea70
- Use the ellipse tool to draw a strawberry biji2
- Select blending options, outer glow, opacity set to 50%
- Duplicate layer until all the background filled with strawberries biji2
- If already selected edit-define pattern and name patternnya
27. then we will make the text
- Open a new file for example with dimensions 350x180
- Select the desired letter and make his writing
- Select a blending mode, Drop Shadow - Multiply with opacity of 30%
- Select Inner Shadow, set the color to be 870D0D
- Select Inner Glow, set the opacity to 75%
- Select bevel and emboss, select inner bevel-smooth with a depth of 100%
- Select pattern overlay, and enter the strawberry pattern that we have created earlier.
28. make gold text
- Enter the text you want and give color e1b917
- Blending modes, drop shadow, select opacitynya 50%
- Select inner shadow, modes: color dodge, color dabb0f
- Select bevel and emboss, select emboss with smooth technique with a depth of 90%, then select the shadow mode: Multiply by color 8a7410
- Select a satin, blend modes linear light with color 473b09
29. insert image in the text
the end result, our text will be colored with the image we prepared, steps:
- Open imagenya, then type any text
- On the text layer, press Ctrl + Click to select all text
- Select the image layer and press Ctrl + C and Ctrl + V
- Delete the text layer and the layer image
thanks to all who have visited this blogif there are additional you can post here
A Photographer's Pilgrimage
04.39
fandy
Outdoor photographer, Sean Bagshaw has captured some truly breathtaking early morning visions. Most of these pieces are so artful there are absolutely no delusions of Bagshaw simply rolling out of bed just before sunrise to snap off one or two lucky exposures and then crawling back into still-warm blankets for a few extra winks. No. These images bespeak tales of pilgrimage, and of a photographer on a journey that involves preparation, intention and a bit of risk taking.
One of my favorite sunrise's in Bagshaw's portfolio is Double Falls Print at Glacier National Park. First inspired by the photograph taken in 1997 by Galen Rowell, pioneer of wilderness photography, Sean's reaction to Rowell's image was both a desire to see the place and an itch to attempt his own version of the famous piece.
Other than knowing that the Falls were in Glacier Park, Montana, Bagshaw had no location information. In 2008 while traveling with a friend and fellow photographer on an autumn expedition, Sean had a "there it is!" moment when he came across Rowell'simage on a postcard in a Glacier Park gift shop. With hope, Sean and his friend got out a topographical map of Glacier and began searching for the proverbial needle. After careful study, they discovered the Double Falls location where Rowell had captured hisimage.
As in all of his work but especially when traveling into ecologically sensitive backcountry terrain, Bagshaw approached the shoot with mindfulness. In order to reach their destination before sunrise, the two photographers began their hike at 4:30 A.M. They picked their way through grizzly country and pre dawn grayness with extreme caution. They chose rocky ground and snow patches so as not to cause erosion and slowly navigated each stump, stone and bush that took on a slightly menacing look in the partial light. Once they had found the falls, they were able to set up their equipment, take several exposures just as the sun was coming up, and then with daylight on their side, return to their car by 6 AM!
The scale of the immediate environment is difficult to guess when looking at Double Falls Print; the imagined breadth of creek and depth of the ravine and cascading falls deceptively make the shot look dangerous to have obtained. In fact, it's not a large creek at all but multiple - perhaps three or four - streams coming together to form a basin. The ravine itself is no more than fifteen feet deep and, as Sean lightheartedly says, "six to eight feet across that could be easily traversed in a running jump!"
Like one who has truly made a pilgrimage, Bagshaw's favorite aspect of Double Falls was the experience: the multiple-year long journey that involved planning, intrigue, search, and discovery. In looking at the finished work, one senses the sheer thrill and unique way that it all came together. The place is scenic and almost architectural in its perfection of geological shapes and lines as well as the contrast of lightness and darkness. We are shown a sort of balance that only nature is capable of producing. While there is no doubt that the Ashland Oregon photographer worked and planned carefully to obtain thisimage, even Bagshaw acknowledges the degree of serendipity that conspired to give him this very special photograph.
Read more »
One of my favorite sunrise's in Bagshaw's portfolio is Double Falls Print at Glacier National Park. First inspired by the photograph taken in 1997 by Galen Rowell, pioneer of wilderness photography, Sean's reaction to Rowell's image was both a desire to see the place and an itch to attempt his own version of the famous piece.
Other than knowing that the Falls were in Glacier Park, Montana, Bagshaw had no location information. In 2008 while traveling with a friend and fellow photographer on an autumn expedition, Sean had a "there it is!" moment when he came across Rowell'simage on a postcard in a Glacier Park gift shop. With hope, Sean and his friend got out a topographical map of Glacier and began searching for the proverbial needle. After careful study, they discovered the Double Falls location where Rowell had captured hisimage.
As in all of his work but especially when traveling into ecologically sensitive backcountry terrain, Bagshaw approached the shoot with mindfulness. In order to reach their destination before sunrise, the two photographers began their hike at 4:30 A.M. They picked their way through grizzly country and pre dawn grayness with extreme caution. They chose rocky ground and snow patches so as not to cause erosion and slowly navigated each stump, stone and bush that took on a slightly menacing look in the partial light. Once they had found the falls, they were able to set up their equipment, take several exposures just as the sun was coming up, and then with daylight on their side, return to their car by 6 AM!
The scale of the immediate environment is difficult to guess when looking at Double Falls Print; the imagined breadth of creek and depth of the ravine and cascading falls deceptively make the shot look dangerous to have obtained. In fact, it's not a large creek at all but multiple - perhaps three or four - streams coming together to form a basin. The ravine itself is no more than fifteen feet deep and, as Sean lightheartedly says, "six to eight feet across that could be easily traversed in a running jump!"
Like one who has truly made a pilgrimage, Bagshaw's favorite aspect of Double Falls was the experience: the multiple-year long journey that involved planning, intrigue, search, and discovery. In looking at the finished work, one senses the sheer thrill and unique way that it all came together. The place is scenic and almost architectural in its perfection of geological shapes and lines as well as the contrast of lightness and darkness. We are shown a sort of balance that only nature is capable of producing. While there is no doubt that the Ashland Oregon photographer worked and planned carefully to obtain thisimage, even Bagshaw acknowledges the degree of serendipity that conspired to give him this very special photograph.
Article Source: http://articlenexus.com
What Are The Traits of the Best SLR camera
04.32
fandy
Choosing the best SLR camera all depends on a lot of distinctive aspects. To begin with, you have to understand all about an SLR camera and what it is. SLR represents "single-lens reflex" and means a camera that uses a mirror that works semi-automatically to enable the person shooting see exactly what the picture they are taking looks like. This is distinct from the pre-SLR cameras that only enable the individuals see the light meters, and not the way the photograph looks like when they are taking it. Another uniquefeature of a SLR camera is that the lens is the only light source on the camera, before SLRs other cameras had two light sources.
Nowadays it has grown to be more of challenge to come across the best SLR camera, this is due to the large number of affordable and easy to use digital cameras available on the market. To be able to help you find thebest SLR camera that is suited to your needs, I have assembled some suggestions that will help you to find the best SLR camera for you.
* Cost - The cameras that can be purchased these days have a very wide array of prices. You can locate cameras that are fairly inexpensive to expensive. The price that you are willing to pay says a lot about the kind of camera you ought to shop for. You need to remember that many times when you buy an SLR camera you are merely paying for the body of the camera, and you will probably have to buy lenses and accessories for you new camera. The best SLR is that which fits your spending budget perfectly.
* The use - you will need to find out what you will be using it for. If you simply want to have the option to take beautiful photos as a hobby, then there is no need for the professional models. There are lots of SLRs out there that are actually aimed at amateurs and other non-professional photographers. The best SLR for you will count on your intended use.
* Image resolution - while there are a lot more features that verify what makes an SLR the "best," the resolution is the most familiar question that is asked. Resolution is how many megapixels per inch the camera is capable of capturing. However, you need to take into account that the more megapixels per inch the camera is capable of, the more costly the camera will be.
* Sizing - The non-professional ones are much more likely to be lighter, seeing as the size is smaller. Getting this may be the best SLR decision you can make. But having said that, top manufacturers like Canon are now coming out with professional cameras with titanium bodies, so as to guarantee the user that the user's wrists are safe and that they will not have to contend with getting too worn out before they even conclude shooting.
These are merely a few of the points that you ought to search for when obtaining the best SLR camera for you. Also Don't forget, there are countless benefits to switching to an SLR from point-and-shoot cameras. Aside from the superior image quality, there is also the adaptability of the camera, the large ISO range which gives you the option to shoot stunning photos in dark places, and a whole lot more. If you remember all these guidelines, I am convinced you'll uncover the best SLR for your style of photography and budget.
Read more »
Nowadays it has grown to be more of challenge to come across the best SLR camera, this is due to the large number of affordable and easy to use digital cameras available on the market. To be able to help you find thebest SLR camera that is suited to your needs, I have assembled some suggestions that will help you to find the best SLR camera for you.
* Cost - The cameras that can be purchased these days have a very wide array of prices. You can locate cameras that are fairly inexpensive to expensive. The price that you are willing to pay says a lot about the kind of camera you ought to shop for. You need to remember that many times when you buy an SLR camera you are merely paying for the body of the camera, and you will probably have to buy lenses and accessories for you new camera. The best SLR is that which fits your spending budget perfectly.
* The use - you will need to find out what you will be using it for. If you simply want to have the option to take beautiful photos as a hobby, then there is no need for the professional models. There are lots of SLRs out there that are actually aimed at amateurs and other non-professional photographers. The best SLR for you will count on your intended use.
* Image resolution - while there are a lot more features that verify what makes an SLR the "best," the resolution is the most familiar question that is asked. Resolution is how many megapixels per inch the camera is capable of capturing. However, you need to take into account that the more megapixels per inch the camera is capable of, the more costly the camera will be.
* Sizing - The non-professional ones are much more likely to be lighter, seeing as the size is smaller. Getting this may be the best SLR decision you can make. But having said that, top manufacturers like Canon are now coming out with professional cameras with titanium bodies, so as to guarantee the user that the user's wrists are safe and that they will not have to contend with getting too worn out before they even conclude shooting.
These are merely a few of the points that you ought to search for when obtaining the best SLR camera for you. Also Don't forget, there are countless benefits to switching to an SLR from point-and-shoot cameras. Aside from the superior image quality, there is also the adaptability of the camera, the large ISO range which gives you the option to shoot stunning photos in dark places, and a whole lot more. If you remember all these guidelines, I am convinced you'll uncover the best SLR for your style of photography and budget.
Article Source: http://articlenexus.com
Beautiful Lighting Available Light Photography
03.46
fandy
Available light can also be refered as ambient lighting. It means any source of lighting that is not created by the photographer utilizing gear such as strobe lighting or flash for the purpose of taking photograph. A few obvious example of this natural lighting could be the Sun or Moon. Other example could be artificial lights that's already there. For an Instance, a car’s head lights, pole lights on the street, or glowing source from a retail store sign.
Ambient lights requires more skill to perfect the picture than just popping a flash at ETTL mode. Depending on the situation, the subject may not face towards certain direction. The brightness is also not adjustable because you’re not going to inform the Sun what to do. Usually, a talented photographer will manipulate the natural source of light with reflectors to brighten up the subject in a certain way. Shades may additionally put in good use in outdoor photography because typically the sun could be very harsh on the subject. {
|One of|Certainly one of} my favorite lighting is the window light. Having a subject stand in front of the window or glass door can create some wonderful pictures. The glass can defuse the incoming lighting and often it creates a soft box effect. The main distinction between ambient lighting and studio lighting is that ambient is very soft, and can improve the vibrant color of the image. Studio lighting is more rich in contrast, and it creates a really sharp look depending on the setup.
Often, ambient lighting is also used as fill- source to help the main lighting. A great photographer who is aware of what he’s doing have so many ways to manipulate ambient lighting to make a picture to tell a lovely story. The success of available light photography is all relies on the surroundings of the scene, the time, and the talent of knowledgeable photographer.
Read more »
Ambient lights requires more skill to perfect the picture than just popping a flash at ETTL mode. Depending on the situation, the subject may not face towards certain direction. The brightness is also not adjustable because you’re not going to inform the Sun what to do. Usually, a talented photographer will manipulate the natural source of light with reflectors to brighten up the subject in a certain way. Shades may additionally put in good use in outdoor photography because typically the sun could be very harsh on the subject. {
|One of|Certainly one of} my favorite lighting is the window light. Having a subject stand in front of the window or glass door can create some wonderful pictures. The glass can defuse the incoming lighting and often it creates a soft box effect. The main distinction between ambient lighting and studio lighting is that ambient is very soft, and can improve the vibrant color of the image. Studio lighting is more rich in contrast, and it creates a really sharp look depending on the setup.
Often, ambient lighting is also used as fill- source to help the main lighting. A great photographer who is aware of what he’s doing have so many ways to manipulate ambient lighting to make a picture to tell a lovely story. The success of available light photography is all relies on the surroundings of the scene, the time, and the talent of knowledgeable photographer.
Article Source: http://articlenexus.com
Make a Photo Darker Tone or More Dimension
01.01
fandy
Sebenernya untuk dasar olahannya sudah ada disini
Jadi teknik ini lanjutan dari teknik sebelumnya.....
yang sebelumnya hasilnya seperti ini:
menjadi seperti ini:
- pertama setelah melakukan olah dgital dari halaman sebelumnya lakukan masking curve seperti gambar dibawah:
nanti akan muncul kolom ini:
- kemudian klik Layer -> New -> Layer (ganti mode overlay), trus klik bagian yg di buletin merah itu (langkah ini sama ama langkah ke 6 dari halaman sebelumnya )
Maka layernya akan terlihat seperti dibawah ini
- Lakukan Burning dan dodging di layer yg baru tersebut.
- Setelah merasa cukup olahannya lakukan flatten (Layer -> Flatten Image)
- Lakukan langkah ini beberapa kali sampe terlihat jelas perbedaan gelap terangnya. Setelahnya bila menginginkan di aplot di FN yg besaran maks 150kb, lakukan saving via Save for Web (File -> Save for Web). note: bila menginginkan menggunakan frame, sebaiknya sekalian frame dulu di sini
- Setelah mendapatkan file dari hasil Save for Web, buka lagi filenya di photoshop, lakukan comparasi dengan file yg sebelum saving, kemudian lakukan Hue/Saturation seperti di bawah:
- Hal ini dilakukan karena biasanya setelah melakukan saving ke file yg lebih kecil warna, qualitas, dll menurun, so untuk mendekatkan dengan warna aslinya.
- Jika tingkat terang dan gelapnya menurun juga.....lakukan lagi cara diatas.
note: karena file yg di edit besaran filenya hanya ratusan kb (max. 150kb utk ukuran aplot di fn) maka kecilkan juga exposure burn n dodge nya. Semisal bila tadi (sebelum saving dan resize) menggunakan exposure 20%, disini gunakan exposure yg lebih kecil semisal 5%. tujuannya agar lebih smooth perpindahan dr gelap ke terangnya.
jadi hasil akhirnya menjadi seperti ini :
sekian tips dari saya semoga bermanfaat dan apabila ada tambahan atau masukan bisa komentar dibawah....
